The History of Salem's Lighthouses

Salem Lights  

By Jerome Curley

Salem has three historic lighthouses within its territory.

The earliest lighthouse was built in response to the treacherous outer harbor waters where many ships were destroyed by storms or run aground by shifting currents.

As Salem’s maritime fleet grew, the newly formed Marine Society took it upon themselves to allocate 20 pounds to build a signal tower to aid ships in navigating in 1791. A three man committee came up with a design for this stationary, unlit tower. Realizing 20 pounds was too little to build a useable aid, they started a subscription drive where they collected 89 pounds to build the tower. Shortly thereafter, a group of mariners built a signal tower on Baker’s Island, three miles east of the entrance to Salem Harbor. The builders were described as a large and jovial party. 

A few days after the party completed its task, Rev. Bentley and others went to the island to collect tools and material left behind. Rev. Bentley, in his diary, describes the tower as, “The beacon is 57’ to the top of the ball, of two foot diameter and the ball is painted black except for a part at the top that was neglected and remains white. The body is conical and upon a diameter of 19’ to the altitude of 10 is formed a convenient room.” He then goes on to describe the door as being red and white while the building is red. He also notes the lack of ventilation, the substitution of shingles for clapboards and the poorly laid foundation of this otherwise well executed design. One wonders if the ‘jovial’ nature of the party contributed to the signal’s shortcomings.

This daytime navigational aid, while helpful during good weather, did little to lessen the number of shipwrecks that continued in the outer harbor. Realizing something better was needed, the Marine Society petitioned Congress in 1791 for a lighthouse to be erected. In 1796, President Washington approved $6,000 for twin lighthouses to be built on Bakers Island. One was 95’ while the other, forty feet distant, was 78’ in height. There was also a two story keeper’s house on this ten acre parcel on the island. The lights went into service on January 3, 1798. The first light keeper was Captain George Chapman of the Salem Marine Society. He served until 1815 when Joseph Perkins who had been a harbor pilot on the island for a number of years took over. It was Joseph Perkins who, seeing the USS Constitution being pursued by two British war ships during the war of 1812, rowed his dory out to the Constitution and piloted her into the safe harbor of Marblehead, eluding capture.

In 1815, a severe storm destroyed the island lights. After repairs and rebuilding, a single stone 26’ lighthouse tower stood on the island. A few months later, another storm forced a ship to crash on the island. Mariners felt the crash was the result of the low profile and dim light of the new lighthouse.

Mariners continued to advocate for another 47’ lighthouse, which was built in 1820. These twin lights were referred to as Ma and Pa or Mr. and Mrs. Baker. In 1869, an attempt was made to move the lighthouses further apart but the landowner refused to sell the land designated. In 1871 the front lighthouse was rebuilt and sited in a better location. The twin lights continued to aid navigation under a succession of light house keepers who endured poor living conditions for many years before the keepers house was rebuilt in 1857. In 1926, the smaller light was de-commissioned and removed. In 1972, the remaining light was automated and later converted to solar power in 2000.  It alternates white and red flashes every twenty seconds.

In 1998, the Baker Island association was granted a 30 year lease on the lighthouse keeper’s house which was used as a summer residence for islanders. With the passage of the National Historic Lighthouse Preservation Act in 2000, the lighthouse was offered for sale to qualified non-profits and government agencies. The Baker Island Association, which limits access to the island to residents and their guests, attempted to buy the lighthouse, but failed when it was granted to the Essex National Heritage Commission in 2005. The Essex National Heritage Commission, in keeping with the law, hopes to have ranger guided tours of the lighthouse and allow marine studies students to live in the keeper’s house during summers. The island association that opposes all outsider access appealed the decision but lost. They do, however, still control the only dock on the island.

Salem’s two additional lighthouses started operation in January of 1871 to ensure that the harbor would be accessible at all times. Along with Hospital Point Light in Beverly, these lights direct traffic from Salem Sound into the harbor, offering range lights at Fort Pickering and Derby Wharf, allowing ships to follow the channel to Salem’s safe harbor. 

The Fort Pickering light was built just off the shore of Winter Island. It was a cast iron, brick lined tower that was usually painted brown or red. In order to access the 28’ light  a 52’ wooden walkway extended from the shore to the light. The keeper’s house was further on shore. When taken over by the Coast Guard in the 1930s,  the keeper’s house was used as the CG Officers Club.

The wooden walkway was twice destroyed by storms in 1879 and 1904. When the Coast Guard left Winter Island in 1965, an off shore buoy replaced the lighthouse. After years of deterioration, the Fort Pickering Lighthouse Association was formed, and restored the lighthouse. The lighthouse was re-lit as a private navigation aide in 1983. Since then it has been maintained by the Friends of Winter Island. It has a white flash every four seconds.

Salem’s final lighthouse, built at the same time as Fort Pickering light, is Derby Wharf Light. 

In 1870, the Derby Wharf Corporation sold 1190 ½ square feet to the federal government for a lighthouse at wharf’s end. At this time, the wharf was its current length of a half mile. When the light went into operation in January of 1871, the light was housed in an existing building, while this 14’ high, square brick tower was completed.  A fifth order Fresnel lantern was used to beam a red light. 

Because of the limited space and closeness to the city, a lighthouse keeper’s house was not built. The first keeper, Charles C. Pettengill, lived in his own home and regularly went to the lighthouse. This living arrangement continued for all six keepers over the years. In response to complaints about distinguishing this light from those at the nearby mill, rebuilding was considered but never happened. There were few repairs or improvements over the years.

William Osgood was the last lighthouse keeper. During the great Salem Fire, June, 1914, he stayed at his home on Summer Street, trying to protect it from the approaching fire, while his wife  went to the lighthouse to light the lamp. She had barely  left the lighthouse  when the fire engulfed  the wharf. After the fire, there was so much damage that Osgood used a rowboat to get to the light. In 1916, the light was changed from oil to acetylene and was automated, ending the lighthouse keeper’s role. 

 In 1922, a white light was substituted for the red. In 1930 it was electrified.  After being automated, the light remained with the Coast Guard until it was decommissioned in 1977 and given to the Salem Maritime National Historic site, run by the National Park Service. The Friends of Salem Maritime, a volunteer group, along with the park service, restored and relit the light in 1983 as a private navigational aid. Since then it has been converted to a solar powered optic that flashes a red light every six seconds. It was again restored in 1989 by a grant from the Mass Historical Commission. 

These Salem lights truly enhance our history, reminding us of the treacherous days of sail while still lighting the way home.